PELABUHAN RATU

Don't try to rent room number 308 at the Samudra Beach Hotel in Pelabuhan Ratu. A guest has already been in residence there for years. Her name is Princess Nyi Loro Kidul - and she's dead.

Local legend has it that Princess Kidul was the daughter of Siliwangi, an ancient king who disappeared into sea along with Kidul and much of his army while fighting a holy war centuries ago. Since then, King Siliwangi and Princess Kidul are said to have build an underwater city and the Princess now controls all activities related to the Indian Ocean on the Southern half of Java. Because of her influence, fisherman pay homage to the Princess by offering her sacrifices once a year and asking for assistance.

Before the Samudra Beach Hotel was constructed, Kidul was consulted by the town's mystics and asked if she approved of the hotel's proposed site. The Princess consented, with the stipulation that a room be reserved for her with a perfect view of the ocean and her favorite tree growing on the beach behind the hotel.

Room 308 was designated as Princess Kidul's and even now people looking for good fortune bring gifts to the room in the hope that their wishes will come true. The Princess's wardrobe is full of beautiful clothes and her sitting area is crowded with gifts brought by hopefuls from all over Indonesia.

It is also said that Princess Kidul is responsible for those unfortunates who are swept away by the rough waters of Pelabuhan Ratu and that she is particularly partial to swallowing up those wearing green. Her room at the hotel is adored with green silk and other materials.

Getting to Pelabuhan Ratu is part of the fun. The last hour of the three-hour drive from Jakarta takes you through some fine countryside with the road lined by teak, rubber, and papaya trees. Friendly villagers keep you busy waving and returning smiles.

Pelabuhan Ratu may not have the classic white sandy beaches of Bali and other well known spots but, if you want some fun in the sun give it a try. As a weekend break Pelabuhan Ratu is an ideal place.

Not far from Samudra Beach are other attractions which make for a great trip to the outlying hill country. One of the most popular areas is Batu Kaca with its spectacular views of the harbor and surroundings.

In the morning, the fish market in town is a real experience. The smell is like, well, a fish market and the sounds of the fisherman and brokers in mid-bargain make for quite a cacophony. Hammerhead sharks, Marlin, Tuna, Squid, Skate and other smaller fry are all there in abundance and at great prices.

Behind the fish market you can walk towards the marina and find some of the best boat builders in the business sanding, painting, and framing fishing boats all by hand. To watch the various stages of the building process is fascinating and it is inspiring to know that the boats the men are constructing are based on designs that have proven sturdy for centuries.

After your morning activities a good place for lunch is the Bayu Amarta, overlooking the beach and the bay, where you can have fresh seafood and a variety of other Indonesian and Western dishes. If you like, bring in your own fish from the local market and the cooks at Bayu Amarta will prepare it the way you want it. The restaurant also has a few bungalows with balconies where you can while away the hours watching the fishing boats plying the surrounding waters.

After a day in the sun, the Rawakalong bat cave is a thrill at around sunset as thousands of the tiny animals comes swarming out for their evening meal. Don't worry, even though they may be hungry, they won't bite you!